1. Use a heat gun and heat foil side labels. Be careful, do not overheat and cause a warped plastic housing! When the foil feels hot to the touch, get an razor point under one corner of the foil and slowly peel it back. If the foil will not lift easy use a little more heat. The foil will curl after it is removed. Gently straighten it out with your fingers and set it aside. Note: For most people, replacing the foil label is not important but if you decide to sell or trade-in the detector it is more desirable to have the label intact.
 

2. With a "pencil type" soldering iron, hold the hot tip into an opening of the old tin battery clips and gently pry them free. The heat will soften the plastic holding the clips in-place. Be careful to not touch any of the plastic detector housing with the hot shaft of the soldering tool!
 

3. With a tool called a "Clawed end cutting pliers," in the battery compartment, start at one end of the plastic divider ribs and snip them off as flush as possible. This should also be done on the plastic ribs found on the inside of the two battery doors.
 

4. Looking at the small battery icons embossed in the bottom of the battery compartment, make a note where the positive and negative poles are at the point where the power enters the housing. Note: The side that held 6 AA batteries is the 9 volt side and the side that held 8 AA batteries is the 12 volt side.

5. With a flat grinding stone in a Dremel tool, grind the remainder of the ribs in the battery compartment flush. Keep the tool moving! Go from one end of the rib to the other. If you spend too much time in one location the plastic will soften and start to roll and leave a rough surface. Also grind off the embossed battery designs till the compartment bottom is smooth and flat.
 

6. Before you go any farther, take an air hose and blow nozzle and blow all the dust away.
 

7. Remove the six screws that hold the top and bottom housing together. Be sure to place these screws in a container. . . they are very hard to replace!
 

8. You will need to identify the wires. I do not know if all models are wired to the same color code. Take a marker and write the colors and their value inside the plastic detector base. "On the Mark I" that I am working on as I write this, the color code is like this. I  believe this was the common color code, BUT I AM NOT SURE!

GREY 9 volt positive +

YELLOW 9 volt negative -
 

ORANGE 12 volt negative -

BROWN 12 volt positive +
 

AGAIN, I AM NOT SURE THIS IS THE SAME ON ALL MACHINES SO CHECK!

9.
A....... You need three 9 volt battery lead wires with connectors

B........You will need one battery holder for two AA batteries.

C........You will need one drill bit about 3/16 size or larger

D........You will need Soldier pencil and soldier

E........ You will need "quality" electrical tape

F........ You will need a small bottle of contact cement

G......... You will need Xylol solvent or adhesive remover

H........ Solvent type all purpose cement (plumbers plastic pipe type)

10. VERY IMPORTANT! With the bottom housing held away from the circuit board , drill one hole near the center of the 9 volt battery compartment. Run two 9 volt leads into the hole.

Twist both of the black 9 volt lead wires onto the 9 volt negative wire (In the example above that would be the yellow wire.) Soldier and tape.
 

11. Twist both red 9 volt lead wires onto the 9 volt positive wire (In the example above this would be the grey wire). Soldier and tape.
 

12. For the twelve volt side, I like to use a AA battery holder that has solid wire leads that will go into two holes drilled into the battery floor. These rigid wire leads can be used to scratch the battery compartment floor to mark for drilling. Try to position the battery clip at the wide end of the 12 volt battery compartment about ½ inch from the end wall.
 

13. Make sure the surface where this clip will be glued is flat. With sandpaper rough-up the bottom of the battery clip and use some solvent type all purpose cement applied with the can's applicator. This cement is available where plastic plumbing supplies are sold. Use a C-clamp to put gentle pressure on the clip (this product dries fast and can be un-clamped in about 30 minutes.
 

14.VERY IMPORTANT! With the bottom housing held away from the circuit board, Drill a hole in the center of the 12 volt compartment. Put one nine volt lead (red and black wires) through the hole.

Twist red wire onto the Positive 12 volt wire (example is brown)
 

Soldier the black lead unto the positive side of the AA holder.
Next, Soldier the negative wire from the circuit board (in the example this is the 12 volt orange wire) onto the negative side of the AA holder.
 

15. Tape all wire connections. After they are taped well, bend the rigid metal wires of the AA holder down toward the bottom housing surface. This must be done neatly and completely! There is very little room and the wires will be next to the circuit board so do a good job!
 

16. Inspect all the wires to make sure no wires broke away from the meter and speaker.
 

17. Put the circuit board in its place and the bottom housing together. Be careful to keep all the wires in the middle. . . away from screw holes and areas where they could be pinched.
 

18. Put all screws into their place and tighten till they are snug. Caution! It is very easy to over tighten these screws! Snug is enough!
 

18. Remove as much adhesive residue from the plastic housing (which was left when removing the labels) as possible. Xylol is a good solvent to use for this because it will cut the glue without harming the plastic.
 

19. Brush a thin coat of contact cement on the foil label and a thin coat on the recessed housing surface. Let the two surfaces flash dry. . .dry to a light touch.

Press labels into place and work out air bubbles paying special attention to the edges.

SUMMARY
20. The 9 volt side has two nine volt batteries to give longer time in the field. In a pinch you can run the detector with one nine volt battery on this side.
 

Use Alkaline batteries. Caution! If you want to use your Teknetics charger be sure to install only nicad batteries!

This is for information only! I am not responsible for the results! It will work if everything is done right! But any mistake could damage the detector to un-repairable condition. We do this modification for $90.00 plus $10.00 shipping and believe me it is a lot of work for $100.00!!!